Slow Horsin' Around

The architecture of the Barbican is a bit divisive - some people (me, for instance) enjoy the clarity of vision in its design, the amount of thought that went into little architectural details like the upsweep of the balconies on its tower blocks, the painstakingly jackhammered distressing of some of the concrete, the lighting, the tiling and so on. For a lot of people its intentionally inward looking architecture and the circuitous design of its highwalks makes it impenetrable and disorientating. But it’d be boring if we were all the same.

I was at the Barbican Library to visit an enjoyable little exhibition entitled 1996 - 30 years on which runs until 17th September. Curated by former Sun editor Dominic Mohan it has photos, old gig posters, newspaper front pages, previously unseen memorabilia and even Scary Spice’s leopard print catsuit all dating from ‘the wildest year of Britain’s wildest decade’. I wandered round in the presence of similarly middle-aged people, some of whom had brought bored teenagers with them who were maybe not quite so enthralled by the display. In a corner was a little polling booth where one could provide a view on that most important of ’90s questions - Oasis or Blur? A couple deliberated with their voting slips. “Which one are you going to tick?” said one. “I really don’t know” said the other in an agonised tone.

Down on the main floor of the Barbican Centre near the shop is a fascinating exibit, usually hidden away but temporarily out on show following restoration - the 1:22 scale model of the entire estate, part of a temporary exhibition that runs until 1st January entitled Concrete and Clay - Archiving the Barbican. There’s a more permanent online exhibition as well, where the Barbican team have worked with Google to digitise thousands of drawings, photos and documents on a dedicated website enticingly named Lose Yourself in the Barbican.

As I looked at the model, a tour group approached and I was able to do a little earwigging. The guide explained that, yes, the estate was confusing to navigate with obstructed sightlines and sometimes ambiguous direction finding - but this was actually vaguely on purpose, a consequence of the aims of the architects to create a ‘fortress’ for the residents, protecting them from the noise and pollution of central London, and a desire to avoid monotonous straight lines, instead taking the opportunity to create changing levels and unexpected vistas. He continued that while the three tower blocks were all the same triangular shape, they all pointed in different directions to ensure a shifting perspective on the ground - but also making them difficult to navigate by.

I left the group to it, and wandered out of the centre onto the highwalk towards Frobisher Crescent. Here you can find, seemingly squeezed into a narrow gap, the Barbican Muse - a figure that points towards the entrance to the Barbican Centre holding masks of comedy and tragegy.

I walk on, snapping merrily away. My visit to the Barbican ends high above Aldersgate Street, looking across at Slough House. Which gave me an idea for a pub crawl.

The second part of this blog was originally posted to the London Pubs group on Facebook

If the Slow Horses actually existed and needed a local near Slough House, they might well choose either of the fine establishments on this evening’s crawl. The Sutton Arms (6 Carthusian Street EC1M 6EB) is probably the closest but not by a great deal. It’s a low lit, high ceilinged Fullers house, lightly busy and cooled on this humid evening by ceiling fans. I’m in a dark mood this evening, so order a pint of Guinness which is mine for £7.75. I take my ease in a corner. An American gentleman at the next table bemoans of his English companion “You’re old, I’m old, we’re all tired!” They cheer each other up by talking about past gigs they’ve been to.

After a couple, I move on. Within plain sight of Slough House is the Shakespeare (2 Goswell Road EC1M 7AA) which forms part of the street aspect of the neighbouring Barbican’s prototype, the Golden Lane estate. There’s a crowd round the bar when I enter, and once again Guinness is on sale, slightly pricier at £8.00. As a more modern place, this one has a spacious interior, and it’s quiet once the original crowd moves off. I take the air outside, where a group relaxes on the outside benches with their beers. One points at the building known as Slough House, just up the street: “That’s their office? No way!” Yes way. “I love Slow Horses!” Don’t we all mate.

I move on, through the Golden Lane estate and along Fortune Street where I find the Two Brewers (121 Whitecross Street EC1Y 8JH). A talkative regular with a sizeable and unconvincing combover occupies the corner stool, pummelling the evidently weary barman with conversation. The Guinness is drinkable and £7.20. I go outside to take the air next to a fellow punter; a mate of his arrives and they bemoan in some detail the imminent going back of the schools and the subsequent effect on the traffic. The barman, looking for further displacement activities from his chatty companion at the bar, brings the new chap a drink. Back inside our friend at the bar continues on his conversational odyssey: “well of course the 153 isn’t starting at Liverpool Street at the moment, so I had to rush for the bus and got home all sweaty. I had to get back out by three in the afternoon, and we had a list of instructions that was nothing to do with us! I would explain it to you, but it’s carnival tomorrow and so Paddington’ll be busy won’t it? You’re going to Weymouth? Well that’s Waterloo isn’t it!” and so on.

I drink on, content that there shall be curry for dinner, as is my inalienable right. The question is - where shall it be?

Act three - curry for me

Due to the sad (and I am genuinely sad about it) closure of Lahore Kebab House I have started patronising Needoo Grill in New Road, as reported in a previous account.

The karahi aloo meat was silky smooth, with tender lamb and potatoes, both of which had absorbed considerable flavour from the tomato-based masala. I dread to think how much butter has gone into this, but it’s an irregular treat so I’m not going to worry too much.

The daal is similarly silky (how do they do that?) and adorned with a bullet chilli on top for extra flavour.

The garlic naan is well-fired and a more than adequate conveyance for the meat, the masala, and the daal. Salty lassi for refreshment. I am in my happy place.